This article discusses Required Venting Changes For A Gas Water Heater When Installing Any New Gas Furnace (standard or high efficiency) IF the home has a shared exhaust vent (serves both furnace & water heater). Most homes built before 1987 have a shared vent. Home Pro Plumber, Heating & A/C in Plano, Texasprovides; maintenance & repairs for all brands of Central A/C, Gas & Electric Furnace, and Heat Pumps. Additionally, we sell and install new HVAC Systems from American Standard (same company as Trane), Ameristar (owned by American Standard), and Coleman HVAC (same company as York).
Home Pro Plumber also provides Full-Service Plumbing; maintenance, repairs, and replacements for every plumbing component in your home. We repair, sell & install gas & electric water heaters. We’re near your home in Plano, TX, Garland, TX, and Richardson, Texas. We service all homes in southern Collin County with no additional travel charges.
Call Home Pro Plumber to discuss concerns about your Plumbing or HVAC System. We’ll arrange an appointment at your convenience.
Image Source: Shutterstock
When Installing Any New Gas Furnace — Changes To Gas Water Heater Venting
Are Required By Building Code. Read below to understand why.
(IF The Home Has A Shared Exhaust Vent For The Water Heater & Furnace.)
Copy The Link Below Into Your Browser To See A Photo Of A Shared Exhaust Vent (serving both the furnace & water heater).
In 1988: 80% Efficient Gas Furnaces became required. Today 90% are required in northern states. 80% allowed in southern states.
Nearly all gas water heaters are naturally vented. This means the heat the create causes exahust to rise up the flue and out of the house.
All new gas furnaces are Mechanically Vented.
This means a fan forces the furnace’s exhaust out of the home.
Many homes (built before 1987) — have a combined exhaust vent — shared by both the furnace & gas water heater.
Furnaces built before 1987 sent 30%–50% of the heat they generated up the flue. That kept the flue warm enough for the water heater’s exhaust to rise too.
When any new gas furnace (standard or high efficiency) is installed in homes with a shared exhaust vent — the water heater must then have it separate venting.
With a combined vent — a mechanically vented furnace can force the water heater’s exhaust downward into the house.
NOTE: Today — An 80% efficient gas furnace is required (in southern states). A 90% is required in northern states.
Is Your Existing Furnace <80% Efficient?
Shown: Older Gas Furnace <78% Efficient.
If a gas furnace is less than 80% efficient:
Its exhaust vent pipe is larger than 3 inches around.
The furnace is silent before the burner’s light. In newer furnaces — there’s a fan motor that pushes exhaust out of the house. You hear this motor start before burners light.
The gas water heater & furnace often share the same exhaust vent.
Homes Built Before 1987 Likely Have A Combined Gas Water Heater + Gas Furnace Venting.
This venting arrangement was allowed with furnaces <78% efficient — because they aren’t mechanically-vented.
The furnace’s wasted heat (going up the flue) — was enough to get both the furnace & gas water heaters’ exhaust to rise up the flue.
In 2003, The International Residential (Building) Code Changed
Nearly All States’ Building Codes Match (Or Are Bused Upon) The International Residential Building Code (IRC)
IRC Building Code No Longer Allows Combined Vents Serving Both A Gas Furnace & Water Heater — Because All New Furnaces Are Mechanically-Vented.
The New IRC Code (2003 and later) States:
4. Vent connectors serving equipmentvented by Natural draft (typical water heater)Shall Not Be Connected Into Any Portion of Mechanical-Draft Systems (all new gas furnaces).
The Water Heater Must Be Vented Through Its Own “B-Vent” Flue
Image Source: Amazon.com Embedded Link
Click On Photo To; View Product, Read Details, or Purchase from Amazon.com
A B-Vent Pipe — Has 2 Pipes:
The inner pipe heats easily. This assist flue gases to easily rise.
There’s an air-gap between the inner & outer pipes.
The air-gap provides some insulation between the inner & outer exhaust pipes — keeping the outer pipe cool.
Exhaust vents must run (as vertically as possible) — from the water heater through the roof.
A single-wall pipe creates a fire hazard. It gets too hot to be near wood. Home roofs are wood on the attic side.
80% gas furnaces — also require a (B-Vent) metal exhaust pipe.
80% furnaces draw their combustion-air (for the burners) — from the area near the furnace. (There are a few models that bring in outdoor-air for combustion).
If the furnace is inside living space — it’s using heated indoor air for combustion.
This causes the home to leak outdoor air inside at air leaks.
90%+ gas furnaces — have 2 plastic pipes.
1 pipe brings in outdoor air for comustion (used by the burners).
The 2nd pipe vents the furnace’s exhaust outdoors.
Plastic venting is used because the furnace’s exhaust is quite cool — (it won’t melt the plastic).
Copy The Link Below To See The Metal Exhaust Venting (B-Vent) For An 80% Gas Furnace:
Shown:HI-E Gas Furnaces Intake Combustion-Air (for the burners) From Outdoors — AND Vent Exhaust Outdoors.
SHOWN: The 2 white plastic pipes in the photo (on left of the furnace at top) and (right of the furnace, near the top) — Are the Exhaust-Vent & Combustion-Air Intake.
The Combined Current Exhaust Venting — Is Too Large For A Gas Water Heater. The flue gasses can’t rise in a pipe that size.
On A Side Note:
A Water Heater’s Exhaust Vent Pipe MustMatch The Water Heater’s Draft Hood’s Size (from water heater through the roof).
Image Source: Amazon.com Embedded Link
Shown: Draft Hood For Gas Water Heater
Click On Photo To: See, View Details, or Purchase the item from Amazon.com
What Happens If An Existing Vent Pipe Is Not Upgraded To Meet Building Code?
With a vent pipe that’s too large — the water heater (alone) can’t produce enough heat — to get exhaust gases to rise out of the home.
In this case, the exhaust gases backdraft to inside the home (because cool air sinks — down the exhaust pipe).
Backdraft means the exhaust gasses move downward instead of upward.
Gas Equipment’s Exhaust Gases Contain Carbon Monoxide (CO).
In small concentrations — CO will make the home occupants sick. In larger enough concentrations — CO can kill.
How To Test If Your Gas Water Heater Is Venting Safely
To Test:
Be sure all windows & doors are closed & locked.
Close fireplace dampers.
Turn all kitchen & bathroom exhaust vents on
Turn clothes dryer on.
If the water heater & gas furnace share the same vent — lower the furnace’s thermostat setting.
Run enough hot water for the water heater to start heating.
Allow the water heater to run continuously for 10 minutes.
With this test, with all venting -devices (described just above) pulling air from the house — after 10 minutes a properly vented gas water heater will not backdraft.
To See A Water Heater Backdrafting — Click On Arrow (in center of image)
Image Source: YouTube Embedded Video
Click On Arrow (in center of image) — To See A Water Heater Backdrafting.
HomeProPlumber
This article discussed Gas Water Heater Required Venting Changes — When Installing Any New Gas Furnace (standard or high efficiency) In Any Home Built Before 1987 — IF the home has a shared exhaust vent (serving both the gas furnace & gas water heater). Most of these homes have a shared vent. Home Pro Plumber, Heating & A/C in Plano, Texasprovides; maintenance & repairs for all brands of Central A/C, Gas & Electric Furnace, and Heat Pumps. Additionally, we sell and install new HVAC Systems from American Standard (same company as Trane), Ameristar (owned by American Standard), and Coleman HVAC (same company as York).
Home Pro Plumber also provides Full-Service Plumbing; maintenance, repairs, and replacements for every plumbing component in your home. We repair, sell & install gas & electric water heaters. We’re near your home in Plano, TX, Garland, TX, and Richardson, Texas. We service all homes in southern Collin County with no additional travel charges.
Call Home Pro Plumber to discuss concerns about your Plumbing or HVAC System. We’ll arrange an appointment at your convenience
The Article Details The Six Companies Who 24 A/C Brands — And The Brands Each Company Makes. Home Pro Plumber, Heating & A/C in Plano, Texasprovides; maintenance & repairs for all brands of Central A/C, Gas & Electric Furnace, and Heat Pumps. Additionally, we sell and install new HVAC Systems from American Standard (same company as Trane), Ameristar (owned by American Standard), and Coleman HVAC (same company as York).
Home Pro Plumber also provides Full-Service Plumbing; maintenance, repairs, and replacements for every plumbing component in your home. We repair, sell & install gas & electric water heaters. We’re near your home in Plano, TX, Garland, TX, and Richardson, Texas. We service all homes in southern Collin County with no additional travel charges.
Call Home Pro Plumber to discuss concerns about your Plumbing or HVAC System. We’ll arrange an appointment at your convenience
These Six Companies Make 24 A/C Brands
Image Source: Dreamstime
Shown: Goodman/Amana brand Central A/C (left) — A Compressor For Ductless A/C System (on right)
These six companies make 24 A/C brands:
Trane Technologies makes; Trane, American Standard, Oxbox, and AmeriStar HVAC. In 1984, American Standard acquired Trane. In 2008, Ingersol Rand acquired Trane. In 2008, Ingersol Rand broke into 3 Divisions — the HVAC Division was renamed Trane. Trane Technologies was formed in 2020. Trane Technologies is located in Davidson, NC. **
Carrier Corporationmakes; Carrier, Bryant, Day & Night, Payne, Comfortmaker, Tempstar & Arcoaire. Carrier is owned by United Technologies Corp (UTC). In April 2020, United Technologies Corporation (UTC) merged with the Raytheon Company — to form Raytheon Technologies. Raytheon Technologies is located in Waltham, MA.
Goodman Manufacturing makes;Goodman & Amana A/C brands. In 2012, Daikin bought Goodman. Daikin North America LLC is located in Houston, TX. It operates as an independent subsidiary of the Daikin Group — Headquaretered in Osaka, Japan. Daikin is the world’s largest manufacturer of HVAC Systems. Daikin bought Goodman to expand into the U.S. HVAC market.
Nortek Globalmakes;Maytag, Frigidaire, Gibson, Nutone, Broan, Mammoth. They are located in O’fallon, MO (near St. Louis). ***
Rheem Manufacturingmakes; Rheem, Ruud, and Weatherking. Rheem is located in Atlanta, GA.
York makes; York, Coleman & Luxaire HVAC. York is located in Chicago, IL. Coleman is located in Norman, OK.
Most HVAC brands have 2–3 Price-Points; “Good”, “Better”, & “Best.” It’s common to different brand name assigned to each price point.
Example:
Trane HVAC sells two “Best” brands — Trane & American Standard.
They also sell two “Good” brands — Oxbox (Trane) & Ameristar (American Standard).
The “Good” brands don’t have the same components the “Best” brands have. In addition to other differences –they have a Copeland ® brand compressor — instead of a “Clima-Tuff” ®
Trane & American Standard Brands Have Their Proprietary“Clima-Tuff” ® Brand Compressor (they make it themselves).
Are Climatuff® (brand) Compressors Superior To Copeland (brand)? That would be an opinion — we only provide facts.
Image Source: Dreamstime
Shown: Trane / American Standard Central A/C Unit
This Story Tells Of The Reliability & Longevity Of Trane’s & American Standard’s Clima-Tuff ® (brand) Compressor:
“Snowball I” (nickname) was the original Climatuff® compressor. It began its life in late 1972 — and ran for nearly 28 years. It ran at an estimated 3,500 rpm — equaling an automobile running 60 — 70 miles per hour, and covering 14.8 million miles. Five presidents later — and after the rise & fall of; disco, glam rock, and grunge music, Snowball finally ran out of steam — and created a legacy for the Trane Climatuff® compressor, found in every Trane & Ameican Standard A/C & Heat Pump. **
“Snowball II” replaced Snotball I — and is also located at Trane’s Compressor Test Lab in Tyler, TX. Snowball II has been running nonstop since 2000 — and is inside a block of ice that it created. Technicians have tried to break this Climatuff® compressor over 900 ways. Trane says” “If a product doesn’t make it through our test lab — it doesn’t get made.”
The Contractor Installing A New HVAC Is As Important (maybe more) Than The HVAC Brand
Image Source: Shutterstock
A “Good” HVAC brand with an excellent installation — will outperform a “Best” brand with shoddy installation. Particularly with flexible ductwork — (which is used in most new HVAC System Installations) — if the ductwork is not installed correctly to specifications — the HVAC System will perform poorly.
Air-flow through an HVAC System is one of the most important operating characteristics. If ductwork is poorly installed, or is too small for the furnace, airflow is compromised. And, the System can’t perform as it was designed to. This condition will; reduce comfort, raise cooling & heating costs — and will wear the System out faster. It can also cause the furnace to overheat and shut down to protect itself (furnace will start running again once it’s cooled down). Over time, the furnace wears out much sooner due to multiple overheating events.
TIP: Tell your contractor, up front, that you want photos of all the flexible ductwork once it’s installed.
All HVACBrands (except American Stanard & Trane) — Use Copeland BrandCompressors.
If there’s an exception somewhere — it’s rare.
Copeland Scroll™ UltraTech™ Compressor
In 2016 — Copeland announced a 2nd Generation — Variable-Speed Compressor. Copeland originally began making; Variable-Speed, Scroll, Compressors in 2011. **
In January of 2017 – Copeland announced a 2nd Generation — Two-Stage A/C Compressor. The second-generation, two-stage, Scroll, A/C compressor operates at 65% or100% capacity — to more closely match cooling-output to the home’s current cooling-demand. Two-stage compressors deliver higher energy-efficiency when operating at the lower capacity (during milder weather) — and running slower will remove more humidity from the indoor air.
A Scroll Compressorcontains 1 fixed coil in the center of the unit + A 2nd coil that rotates around the fixed coil. The rotating coil pushes refrigerant towards the center, which compresses it. Until recently Scroll A/C Compressors operated at only 1 speed. As compared — reciprocating (piston) Compressors can operate at many different speeds.
Now, Copeland brand Scroll compressors are make as Single-speed, Two-Speed, or Variable-Speed. Two-stage units provide either partial-load & full-load capacity. Scroll compressors change speed while they are running. Reciprocating/piston compressors operate at partial-load capacity — by shutting off some of their cylinders. Depending on its size — a reciprocating compressor can have as many as 8 cylinders.
What Is A Reciprocating (piston) A/C Compressor?
Image Source: YouTube Embedded Video.
Click On White Arrow In Center Of Image To View Video
The reciprocating (piston) compressor is the most common. A piston compresses the refrigerant by moving up & down inside a cylinder (much like a car engine). As the piston moves down, it draws refrigerant into the cylinder. As the piston moves up– the gas compresses.
Click On The Arrow In The Image Below To Watch How A Reciprocating (piston) Compressor Works.
Image Source: Embedded YouTube Video
Click On White Arrow In Center Of Image To View Video
An A/C Compressor’s Outside Appearance Tells You Which Type It Is
The Article Detailed The Six Companies Who 24 A/C Brands — And The Brands Each Company Makes. . Home Pro Plumber, Heating & A/C in Plano, Texasprovides; maintenance & repairs for all brands of Central A/C, Gas & Electric Furnace, and Heat Pumps. Additionally, we sell and install new HVAC Systems from American Standard (same company as Trane), Ameristar (owned by American Standard), and Coleman HVAC (same company as York).
Home Pro Plumber also provides Full-Service Plumbing; maintenance, repairs, and replacements for every plumbing component in your home. We repair, sell & install gas & electric water heaters. We’re near your home in; Wylie, TX, Rowlette, TX, and Murphy, Texas. We service all homes in southern Collin County with no additional travel charges.
Call Home Pro Plumber to discuss concerns about your Plumbing or HVAC System. We’ll arrange an appointment at your convenience
The article answers the question: “Does Drano harm pipes. Home Pro Plumber, Heating & A/C in Plano, Texasprovides full-service plumbing; maintenance, repairs, and replacements for every plumbing component in your home. We sell and install Rheem Professional Series gas & electric water heaters, and tankless water heaters. We’re near your home in Plano, Garland, and Richardson. We service all homes in southern Collin County with no additional travel charges.
Home Pro Plumber also provides maintenance & repairs for all brands of Central A/C, Gas & Electric Furnace, and Heat Pumps. Additionally, we sell and install new HVAC Systems from American Standard (same company as Trane), Ameristar (same company as American Standard), and Coleman HVAC (same company as York HVAC).
Call Home Pro Plumber to discuss concerns about your Plumbing or HVAC System. We’ll arrange an appointment at your convenience
Can Drano Harm Pipes?
This article sets the record straight about chemical drain cleaners’Risks To Sewer Pipes(made of different materials). We show the sources for what we say.
Additionally, we discuss The Risks That Chemical Drain CleanersPose To You if;
on your skin
into your eyes
breathing that’s air saturated with chemical-fumes.
Saturated fumes are unlikely with chemical drain cleaners — because they don’t contain acid.
Amy Matthews, a licensed contractor in Minneapolis and host of “Bathroom Renovations” on the DIY Network says: “Don’t use chemical drain cleaners. They’re dangerous to people and pipes — and horrible for the environment. Even the ones that say ‘won’t damage pipes — will damage pipes.”
Try using a plunger. If that doesn’t work, try an auger. A plunger loosens the clog — allowing it to move down the drain. An auger twists into the clog and breaks it up.” Seal overflow holes with tape in order to use a plunger (otherwise the pressure it creates exits the overflow hole instead). Plungers with flat bases are for sinks and tubs. Plungers with rounded bases are for toilets.
If more than one drain is backed up — call a professional plumber or sewer and drain cleaner. The best way to deal with clogs is prevention.
Follow These Rules To Avoid Or Minimized Clogged Sewer Pipes:
Only; Water, Natural Waste, and Toilet Paper — go into sewer pipes.
Cooking oil & grease will cool & harden midway through your pipes — then stick to the pipe’s walls.
Put oils & greases in a jar, or cottage cheese container (or similar) — and place it in the garbage.
A garbage disposal isn’t a trash can. It’s intended for minimal waste removal — such as extra bits of food left on plates.
Plus, disposer struggle with fibrous materials. Thow potato skins and vegetables in the trash.”
Do Regular Pipes Maintenancewith a (natural, non-chemical) Enzymatic Drain Cleaner.
These remove only organic materials — like sewer sludge (which is often what clogs pipes).
Sewer pipes aren’t organic.
One of the most economical and widely available enzymatic drain maintainers is Rid-X.
Though originally marketed to maintain septic tanks — it works equally well for sewer pipes’ maintenance. (more details later in this article).
Note: Rid-X doesn’t remove clogs. You’ll need a plunger or auger for that.
Image Source: Amazon.com Embedded Link
Shown: RID-X Works Well To Maintain Sewer Pipes (to prevent clogs).
Click On Image To; View Product, Read Details or Purchase From Amazon.com
Drano Also Has An Enzymatic Cleaner For Pipe Maintenance
Our Answers
Can Drano harm pipes? Our answers depend on which material your sewer pipes are made of.Drano is corrosive and harms pipes made of metal. Drano likely harms ABS (black) plastic sewer pipes. It may harm older PVC (white) plastic pipes (20+ years) — details within this article. Below are the primary 4 types of sewer pipes — and the years they were commonly used in new construction homes.
Shown: PVC (white plastic) Sewer Pipe — Common In Homes Built 1975 & Later.
PVC is the 2nd Generation Plastic Sewer Pipe. — and is what’s used in all new homes today.
Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC) is a “thermoplastic”. Many plastics will melt when exposed to enough heat. To prevent this, PVC goes through a thermosetting process — with heat providing the energy for thermosetting. After thermosetting — PVC is very rigid and hard, and can’t be re-melted. PVC also has excellent chemical resistance.
When Used As Directed — Can Drano Harm Pipes Made of PVC (PolyVinyl Chloride)?
Possibly: PVC pipes > 20 years old (see source *3 below).
Not Likely: PVC pipes < 20 years old. *3
*3 Source: “Best Drain Cleaners Of 2021” https://www.bobvila.com/articles/best-drain-cleaner/
Does This Mean You Shouldn’t Use Household Bleach? No, it’s ok to use it.
Household bleach contains only 3–8% Chlorine.
Bleach is typically tremendously diluted in common household uses.
SHOWN: Drano. Click On Image, To Read The Back Side Of The Bottle
Near the bottom of the Drano’s bottle’s label — you’ll see: “Corrosion Inhibitor”.
Definitions:
Corrosion: The primary means by which metals deteriorate. The most common corrosion is caused by a chemical(s)— and spreads uniformly over the entire exposed surface.
Corrosion Inhibitor: A chemical substance added into a corrosive environment — to prevent or reduce corrosion. It forms a protective-film on the lining of a pipe. Sodium Metasilicate has been added to Public Water Systems for over 70 years — to reduce the effects of corrosive-water on the pipes.
Source: https://www.intechopen.com/chapters/64392
Drano Adds Sodium Silicate As Its Corrosion Inhibitor.*
Sodium Silicate Inhibits Rust By Forming A Thin Film Of Silicate On A Pipe’s Lining.
Natural silica is a trace mineral — that consists of silicon & oxygen. Silica forms a protective-barrier on the inside of the pipe. Sodium Silicate has been used in Municipal Water Systems pipes for over 70 years to inhibit rust.
BUT— Drano’s 3 Corrosive Ingredient Will Dissolve Silica Deposits.
DISSOLVING SILICA SCALE:There are 2 generally accepted ways to remove silica deposits. One is is to use Sodium Hydroxide / Lye.
Source: Improved Methods For Removal Of Silicate Deposits. chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/viewer.html?pdfurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.heatexchanger-fouling.com%2Fpapers%2Fpapers2017%2F32_McCartney_Improved%2520Methods%2520for%2520Removal%2520of%2520Silicate.pdf&clen=1029454&chunk=true
The pH Level Scale Is A: 0 — 14 Number To Identify If A Substance Is:
Acidic (pH <7), Neutral (7), or Alkaline (pH>7).
Acids measure pH< 7.
0 is extremely acidic.
Low pH = high acidity = highly corrosive.
7 pH is Neutral.
Alkalines measure pH > 7.
14 is extremely alkaline.
High pH = high alkalinity = highly corrosive.
In highlyalkaline solutions (like Drano) — Corrosion rates are comparable to highly acidic solutions.
In moderately alkaline environments — some metals may develop a protection-layer that lessons corrosion.
Source: Palo Alto Research Center https://www.researchgate.net/post/Why-are-corrosion-rates-in-low-pH-solutions-higher-than-high-pH-solutions
Drano Has 3 Highly Alkaline/ Highly Corrosive Ingredients (show just below).
High pH number = highly alkaline = highly corrosive.
pH 11: Drano’s overall pH
Drano says: We use pH adjusters to achieve the best pH for a particular job. Also, the pH of a formula limits its tendency tocorrode a can.
pH 14: Sodium Hydroxide (lye) — is one of the most corrosive substances on earth.
pH 12:Sodium Hypochlorite (bleach) — is also highly corrosive.
pH 11-13 Sodium Silicate (rust inhibitor) — is also highly corrosive (when unable to form a protective-layer of silicate).
The Bubbling You May See When Using Chemical Drain Cleaners
Does Drano Harm Pipes Due To It Boiling Water? NO — because the bubbling water isn’t boiling.
Most chemical drain cleanersconsist of combinations of; sodium hydroxide (lye), sodium hypochlorate (bleach), sodium nitrate (salt) or sodium chloride (salt) and shards of aluminum.
In water, the aluminum reacts with lye — to produce hydrogen gas. *4
The bubbles of hydrogen gas agitate the mixture to help dislodge the clog.
While some heat may be generated — the drain cleaner isn’t boiling.
Image Source: YouTube Embedded Video
Shown: Lye-Based Drain Cleaner Creating Hydrogen Gas Bubbles *6
Drano & Other Chemical Drain Cleaners
Health Risks To You
Copy The Link Below Into Your Browser To See The “Safety Data Sheet” For Liquid Drano (highlights just below):
The specific chemical identity and/or exact concentration percentage of Drano are withheld as A Trade Secret (this is perfectly legal).
Risk Of Physical Injury While Using Chemical Drain Cleaners Is Ever-Present.
Serious injury can result from dropping an open bottle of chemical drain cleaner – that splashes onto your body. Within the article is a link to a story of a devastating injury resulting from 2 drops of chemical drain cleaner getting on a man’s hand. After 27 surgeries he had the hand amputated.
Health Risks Chemical Drain Cleaners Present
The U.S. Dept. Of Heath & Human Services Website
Says This About Liquid Drano:
Warnings:
Causes severe skin burns and eye damage.
Precautionary statements:
Call for medical advice if needed. Have product container close by when calling.
Keep out of reach of children. Immediately call 911 if you suspect someone has ingested a chemical drain cleaner. IF SWALLOWED: Rinse mouth. Do NOT induce vomiting.
IF INHALED: Get fresh air and stay in a position comfortable for breathing.
IF ON SKIN (or hair): Remove product immediately. Remove any contaminated clothing. Rinse skin with water/ shower.
IF IN EYES: Call 911. Remove & discard contact lenses. Rinse cautiously with water for several minutes.
A Simple Mistake While Handling Chemical Drain Cleaner
Cause A Catastrophic Injury
The link below is to an article (written by his wife) about a man who ended up having 27 surgeries — in an attempt to remedy the ongoing issues of his injury from 2 drops of chemical drain cleaner. He eventually had the hand amputated. Even that did not solve the problem…
Copy This Link Below Into Your Browser To Read An Article About An Hand Injury
A Man Suffered As A Result Of 2 Drops Of Chemical Drain Cleaner.
Make a simple mistake while using chemical drain cleaners — and you risk severe injury.
After you used a chemical drain cleaner — don’t attempt to clear the drain with another method.
If a chemical drain cleaner doesn’t clear the clog — the standing water is now highly toxic.
You could splash or expose yourself to drain cleaner in the standing water.
Better & Safer Ways To Remove Clogs
CAUTION: Do Not Use If A Chemical Drain Cleaner Was Used First.
Use a plunger first. It often clears clogs quickly and safely.
A plunger can’t clear a clog caused by hair.
It depends on suction (upward pressure) and downward pressure to clear a clog — so the clog must contain something the plunger can pull & push against.
Use a Zip-It for hair removal.
Zip-It is designed to remove hair. It has “teeth” along its sides to snag hair.
Shown: Photo Shows “Teeth” Along Sides Of A Zip-It
HomeProPlumber
The article answered the question: “Does Drano harm pipes. Home Pro Plumber, Heating & A/C in Plano, Texasprovides full-service plumbing; maintenance, repairs, and replacements for every plumbing component in your home. We sell and install Rheem Professional Series gas & electric water heaters, and tankless water heaters. We’re near your home in Plano, Garland, and Richardson. We service all homes in southern Collin County with no additional travel charges.
Home Pro Plumber also provides maintenance & repairs for all brands of Central A/C, Gas & Electric Furnace, and Heat Pumps. Additionally, we sell and install new HVAC Systems from American Standard (same company as Trane), Ameristar (same company as American Standard), and Coleman HVAC (same company as York HVAC).
Call Home Pro Plumber to discuss concerns about your Plumbing or HVAC System. We’ll arrange an appointment at your convenience
Home Pro Plumber provides full service plumbing maintenance, repairs and replacements for every plumbing component in your home. Al’s sells and installs Rheem Professional Series gas & electric water heaters, and tankless water heaters. We are near near your home in Wylie, TX; Murphy, TX and Rowlette, TX. We service all homes in southern Collin County TX and Denton County, TX with no travel charges.
Call Home Pro Plumber today to discuss any concerns or problems you have with your Plumbing. We will arrange an appointment at your convenience and offer 24/7 Emergency Service.
NOTE: If You Need Repairs Or Replacement Of Your HVAC System, Please Call (972) 362-1645
Image Source: ShutterStock
Many homes in DFW have an electric furnace and natural gas is not connected to the house. If you have electric heat, you can reduce heating bills by up to 40% by replacing your electric furnace with a Heat Pump HVAC System. A heat pump is a central a/c that runs in reverse to make heat. In cooling mode, a heat pump works just like an air conditioner. It removes heat from indoor air and moves it outdoors. In heating mode, the heat pump extracts heat from outdoor air and moves that heat into the house. Moving heat is less expensive that creating heat with an electric furnace.
25 Less Common Ways To Lower Heating Costs
Heating-Costs Comparison — A 2,000 Square Foot DFW Home With 4 Occupants
Heating Costs In DFW:
80% GAS Furnace: 60.2 MCF of Natural Gas X $9.71 per MCF: $585.00 Annual Heating Cost
97%GAS Furnace: 51.2 MCF X $9.71 per MCF: $497.00 Annual Heating Cost
Standard Efficiency Heat Pump 7,450 kWh X 0.1098 per kWh: $810.00 Annual Heating Cost (around 35% less expensive than electric furnace)
Electric Furnace: 11,775 kWh X 0.1098 per kWh: $1,295.00 Annual Heating Cost
This Article Provides Ways To Lower Heating (and Cooling) Costs
WithoutReplacingHVAC System
This Article Is About Modest Costs Energy -Saving Home Upgrades. It describes ways to reduce heating costs with:
Low to modestly priced energy-saving products
Lifestyle Changes that cost nothing
Ways To Notably Lower Heating Costs With Little Or Modest Cost
1. Compare your electricity retailers price per kWh to other providers.
Log into PowerToChoose.org
To see electric kWh rates from many electricity retailers. Plans can be ranked (for cost per kWh).
There are 3 rates per kWh: 500 kWh / 1,000 kWh / 2,000 kWh
Check your previous bills to determine your average kWh per monthly usage. This will guide you in determining which rate is most important to you.
Plans are for 3, 6 or 12 months. For a fair comparison, filter “Contract Length” so all results are for the same period of time.
Check the Monthly Base Charge. ** For low electricity use consumers, the base fee, added to a great kWh charge may not be a value.
** Some plans have a minimum charge which covers a specified number of kWH. If you use less, you still pay the minimum charge.
Comparing Prices Made Simple
NOTE: When Comparing Prices, All You Need To Compare Both The ENERGY CHARGE For Each Retailer + The Base Charge.
All of DFW is serviced by ONCOR, our electricity Transmission & Distribution provider.
So, The Transmission & Distribution Charge will be nearly identical.
What differs is the Energy Charge rate for each Retailer.
Compare Rates For Identical Plans: 1. Contract Length & 2. The Number Of kWh You Typically Use Per Month (your past bills will tell you).
At the time this article was written, research on the website showed the lowest priced rate was about 2/3 of the highest priced rate.
Results:
LOWEST Rate = 8.7 cents per kWh (based on 2000 kWh per month).
Plan Information (as stated by the provider):
12 Month Contract
Energy Charge = 8.7 cents per kWh
In addition to the Energy Charge, these charges will be added to your monthly bill:
Electricity Transmission and Distribution (TDU) Charge = $0.0368 per kWh
Base Charge = $3.49 per month
Energy Charge For 2,000 kWh = $ 174.00 + $3.49 (base charge) = $177.49
— TO —
HIGHEST Rate = 12.9 cents per KWH (based on 2000 kWh per month).
Plan Information (as stated by the provider):
12 Month Contract
Energy Charge =12.9 cents per kWh
Energy Charge For 2,000 kWh = $258.00 + $9.95 (base charge) = $267.95.
This retailer is +$90.46 more expensive for the same amount of electricity usage.
In addition to the Energy Charge, these charges will be added to your monthly bill:
Electricity Transmission and Distribution (TDU) Charge = $0.03827 per kWh
Base Charge = $9.95 per month
Based on how much electricity you use, choosing a lowest cost plan can save you a lot of money. All electricity is distributed by the same provider (ONCOR). All the differs is the Electricity Retailer’s per kWh charge & base charge.
2. Seal Air Leaks
The single most effective measure in reducing heating and cooling costs is to weatherize your home. Sealing air leaks can reduce energy costs by up to 30%. The older the home is, the more air it leaks.
Air leaks are unsealed openings through a building’s “envelope” (its walls, foundation, and roof). These air leaks are typically responsible for a large portion of a home’s energy use and can also create indoor air quality problems.
According to the U.S. Dept. Of Energy (DOE) — Air-Leaks Account For Up To 30% Of Total Cooling & Heating Loss *1
Cold air will always move toward warm air because cold air is more dense. Air leaks work in reverse based on the season:
You lose cooled air in summer as cooler indoor air moves outside through air leaks closer to the floor.
You lose heated air during winter as heated air rises and exits the home through air leaks close to or in the ceiling. Then cold air replaces the escaping warm air at leaks near the floor.
The older the home is, the more air it leaks. All the air leaks in a typical 1970’s built DFW combined would be the equivalent to having one window open all the time. *2
*1 Source: U.S. Department Of Energy (DOE)
*2 Source: https://www.nrdc.org
DIY efforts to close up air leaks can have a dramatic impact on both heating & cooling costs, plus improve the comfort-level inside the home. We have gone in to some detail to help you identify where the leaks are located (often times they are somewhat hidden) and how much heat & a/c is lost by categories of air leaks.
The Following Areas Are Where Homes Leak Air:
31% Floors, Walls & Ceilings
15% Ductwork (heat & a/c going into your attic)
14% Fireplace (if damper is left open when fireplace not being used)
13% Plumbing Penetrations
11% Doors
10% Windows
4% Bath & Kitchen Venting
2% Outlets & Switches
Source: U.S. DOE
3. Seal Leaks In The Ceilings
You might think “How can a ceiling leak air?” The leaks are at the openings in the ceiling. Most older homes have gaps around electrical boxes. Because these leaks are in the ceiling (heat rises), they present a great opportunity to lower heating costs.
To seal the gaps, use caulk or spray-foam (for gaps too large for caulk).
Most DFW homes have HVAC Vents in the ceiling. Older homes will have gaps around the vents — and not visible due to the vent cover.
Today’s new can light fixtures don’t have vent holes.
These Are An Easy DIY Retrofit LED Update To Existing Can Lights. No Wiring Is Required.
The new fixture simply screws into the socket of the existing fixture. No wiring is required.
These new fixtures come with an LED bulb available in cool or warm white light. The fixture shown below produces the equivalent of 100 watts of light — using 12 watts.
LED bulbs produce very little heat (that your a/c must remove). 90% of the electricity used by LED produces light. 90% of the electricity used by incandescent lights produces heat.
Once sealed to the ceiling, these fixtures won’t allow heat to rise into the attic in winter, or push heat (from attic) into the living space during summer.
Note: Because most DFW homes have “Popcorn” Textured Ceilings, you will need to add caulk to seal the new fixture to the ceiling. Put the caulk around the hole in the ceiling – not- at the edge of the new fixture’s lip.*** Also ensure the new fixture will cover the caulk.
Note: *** Caulking as instructed ensures that if the fixture ever must be removed, the damage to the popcorn texture will be covered by the lip of the fixture when reinstalled.
Click On Photo To: View Product, See Details, or Purchase From Amazon.com
5. Seal Leaks In The Walls
Image Source: ShutterStock
SHOWN: Outlet with large gap between outlet & face plate
6. OUTLETS & SWITCHES
Just like with the ceilings, the primary locations where walls leak air are at openings. Note: Sealing air leaks is not limited to outside walls, air gets into the house from interior walls too.
Air Leaks Into The Home:
around the outlet / switch electrical box
around the actual outlet or switch (2%). There are Foam Gaskets To Seal That Gap.
Click On Photo To: View Product, See Details, or Purchase From Amazon.com
Shown: Gaskets Are Available For Both Outlets & Switches
7. SEAL WHERE PLUMBING COMES THROUGH THE WALLS
Image Source: CanStockPhoto
SHOWN: A Noticeable Gap Exists Around The Black Pipe Where It Enters Into The Wall.
In older homes, it’s common for large gaps to exist where plumbing comes through walls. These gaps are low in the walls, so cold air enters through the gaps in winter and cold air exits through these gapsduring summer.
Home Pro Plumber provides full service plumbing maintenance, repairs and replacements for every plumbing component in your home. Al’s sells and installs Rheem Professional Series gas & electric water heaters, and tankless water heaters. We are near near your home in Plano, TX; Allen, TX and Frisco, TX. We service all homes in southern Collin County TX and Denton County, TX with no travel charges.
Call Home Pro Plumber today to discuss any concerns or problems you have with your Plumbing. We will arrange an appointment at your convenience and offer 24/7 Emergency Service.
NOTE: If You Need Repairs Or Replacement Of Your HVAC System, Please Call (972) 362-1645
Home Pro Plumber provides full service plumbing maintenance, repairs and replacements for every plumbing component in your home. Al’s sells and installs Rheem Professional Series gas & electric water heaters, and tankless water heaters. We are near near your home in Plano, TX; Allen, TX and Frisco, TX. We service all homes in southern Collin County TX and Denton County, TX with no travel charges.
Call Home Pro Plumber today to discuss any concerns or problems you have with your HVAC System or Plumbing. We will arrange an appointment at your convenience and offer 24/7 Emergency Service.
Power Surges Have The Capacity To Damage Or Destroy
Home Wiring, HVAC, Appliances, Electronics & Electrical Devices
Image Source: pixabay.com
Shown: Lighting Strike
EXTERNAL POWER SURGES ENTER YOUR HOME FROM THE POWER LINES
INTERNAL POWER SURGES COME FROM INSIDE THE HOME
Homes use 120-volt power — with voltage ranging from -169 volts (low) TO +169 volts (high). A power surge spikes the voltage over 170 volts. During a Power Surge, damage to; Home Wiring, HVAC Systems, Appliances and Electronics can occur.
External Power Surges come into your home from the outside power line. External Power surges can damage both your home’s wiring and every electrical device connected to it.
A Lightning Strike power surge is what most people think of causing a power surge. This is one of the most damaging types of power surge. There are over 20 million cloud-to-ground lightning strikes in the 48 contiguous U.S. states each year. A power surge occurs if the voltage in the electricity rises above 170 volts. A lightning bolt has 40,000 — 120,000 volts. *
In addition to lightening, there are many other ways power surges are created. We will discuss some of the most common sources of power surges in this article.
A Power Surge can be created any place in the power grid from the power plant to the neighborhood transformer near your home. Just below we detail the individual components of the U.S. Power Grid, We describe what each component does, how they are interconnected, and how they relate to each other during the creation and transmission of electricity from Power Plant to your home.
1. Electricity is generated in the power plant. There are typically multiple generators that produce electricity within each power plant.
In Most Power Plants:
A fuel is used to heat water until it’s steam. (It can also be moving water in a hydroelectric plant).
The steam turns the blades of the generator’s turbine.
The turbine provides the power to spin the generator.
Once the steam has been used to spin the turbine, the steam is cooled back into water inside a cooling tower (see a cooling tower in 2nd pic below).
Once the cooling tower cools the steam back into water, the water is returned and reheated until it’s steam again.
Shown: Electricity Generator Inside A Power Plant
Image Source: ShutterStock
One typical power plant generator produces 345,000 volts, and can produce as much as 765,000 volts. Power plants step up the electricity’s voltage before it leaves the power plant. This is because less electricity is lost (while in the power lines) when the voltage is high.
Shown: Power Plant (in background). Cooling Tower (in Foreground).
Image Source: Pixabay
2. Electricity Transmission Lines carry electricity long distances. They are huge lines connected to tall towers. The lines are also interconnected. If one line fails, another transmission takes over the failed line’s load. Transmission lines deliver electricity to electrical sub stations.
3. Electrical Substations use step-down transformers to reduce the voltage to 12,000 volts. Substations are small, fenced in areas that contain switches, transformers, and other electrical equipment.
4. Upon leaving the substation, the electricity enters the Power Distribution lines. These can be overhead or underground. Overhead distribution lines are often seen along busy streets. In areas developed after 1960, residential areas are typically served by underground distribution lines that bring the electricity to your home.
5. Before electricity enters your house, the voltage is reduced again by a (step down) Transformer. These are the round gray cans on power poles OR a box (typically painted green) that sits on the ground (in areas with underground electricity distribution lines).
The neighborhood transformer reduces the electricity voltage to 120 and 240 volts. 120 voltage runs small electricity users, such as a refrigerator, computer, or a portable electric heater. 240 voltage is for large users of electricity such as; central air conditioning, a large window air conditioner, electric clothes dryer, electric kitchen range / cooktop / wall oven, and electric furnaces.
Shown: Electricity Transformer For Overhead Power Transmission Lines
6. Once the local transformer steps the voltage down to 120 or 240 volts, it comes into your home and is ready to use.
Shown: 120 Volt Electrical Outlet
Image Source: ShutterStock
Shown: 240 Volt Electrical Outlet
Image Source: ShutterStock
POWER SURGES CAN OCCUR DUE TO ANY CHANGE WITH THE FLOW OF ELECTRICITY
THE CHANGE CAN OCCUR AT ANY LOCATION WITHIN THE POWER GRID
Once common source of power surges occurs during increasing electricity demand. Adding additional power generators or additional power plants causes more electricity to flow into the lines and can create a line voltage surge.
Problems with electrical distribution equipment, such as overheated transformers or broken power lines that fail and stop carrying electricity can also cause power surges. These kinds of surges are impossible to predict. When an electrical line fails, the electricity it was carrying can create a brief power surge in nearby electrical lines.
A Short Circuit Within The Electricity Distribution Network is another common cause of a power surge. A short circuit is defined as electricity taking a different path than the correct path. If an electrical path with less resistance (than the correct path) occurs, electricity will flow through that path instead becauseshorter paths have less resistance. This is what the term “short circuit” means.
A Common Short Circuit Is Occurs When Tree Limbs touch power distribution wires. If the power wire touches a tree, the tree provides a direct path for electricity to flow into the ground (the earth). This is why you see trees trimmed away from power lines.
Image Source: Photo by Ibrahim Boran from Pexels
Shown: Tree On Left Trimmed Away From Electrical Line
Click In The White Arrow (In Center Of Image Below) To See What Happens When A Tree Touches A Power Line And A Short Circuit Occurs
Power Blinks Occur Because:
Something goes wrong within the power distribution network.
A protective device reacted to the problem and disconnected the affected power line(s).
If a Fuse exists in the affected power line, the fuse blows and must be replaced by power-restoration crews.
If a Circuit breaker exists in the power line, it will retest the line to check if the problem has cleared. It will reconnect the line and disconnect again if the problem still exists. It may do this several times. If the short-circuit continues, the breaker will shut off until power-restoration crews correct the problem. During the testing by the circuit-breaker, power surges can repeatedly come into your home.
When a default causes a power line to disconnect, the electricity flowing through that line briefly reroutes to nearby lines, until the ground wire(s) carry the excess electricity away. During the reroute, the power in your home may blink.
Surge Protectors Stop Power Surges From Getting To Your Devices
A Power Surge Occurs When A Power Outage Is Restored
At one moment power line is carrying no electricity due to a power outage. When power is restored, a surge of electricity races into and through the line.
Shown: Circuit Breakers Panel
Image Source: CanStockPhoto
The Best Way To Protect Your Home And Contents From The Power Surge That Occurs After A Power Outage
Is To Turn Off The Main Breaker In Your Home’s Circuit Breaker Panel.
Wait 5 minutes after power is restored before turning the Main Breaker back on.
FOR EXTERNAL POWER SURGES — WHOLE HOUSE SURGE PROTECTORS
Whole House Surge Protectors can protect your home’s electrical wiring + every electrical device from damage caused by an EXTERNAL Power Surge.
A Comprehensive Power Surge Protection Strategy Incorporates:
First-Tier Surge Protection at the power meter. — This is called a TYPE 1 Surge Protector.
Second-Tier Surge Protection at the circuit breaker panel. — This is called a TYPE 2 Surge Protector.
Third-Tier Surge Protection where devices plug into an outlet. — This is called TYPE 3 Plug-In Surge Protector. These protectors are for internal power surges.
Shown: Electric Meter-Socket Surge Arrestor
Image Source: Amazon Embedded Link
NOTE: Dangerous Levels Of Electricity Exist At The Electric Meter & Inside Circuit Breaker Panels.
NOTE: First-Tier & Second Tier Surge Protection Devices Must Be Installed By A Licensed Electrician.
The arrestor shown sits between the electric meter and the house. It stops External Power Surges before they can enter the circuit breaker panel. The manufacturer of the unit shown states that it provides protection of up to 50,000 peak Amps of surge. A Whole-House surge protector guards the home’s wiring + all electrical devices from a power surge (up to the capacity of the protector).
Copy The Link Below Into Your Browser To Read Details On The Electric Meter-Socket Surge Arrestor Shown Above:
** NOTE: The Surge Protector shown above is rated at 50,000 amps. This Old House says “whole-house systems should be rated to stop a 40,000-amp surge, at minimum”. **
Shown below is a modestly priced, Whole House, Surge Protector that installs inside the Circuit Breaker Panel. Near its top is the location of the indicator light that glows green indicating the protector is working properly. **
** NOTE: This Surge Protector is rated at 20,000 amps. This Old House says “whole-house systems should be rated to stop a 40,000-amp surge, at minimum”. **
Whole Home Surge Protective Devices are for higher-level External power surges. External surges are to large to be stopped by plug-in power surge protectors. Whole House SPD’s provide surge suppression for items that can’t be plugged into plug-in surge protectors, such as HVAC, electric dryer, electric stove / cooktop / wall oven, and lighting. Surge Protectors redirect excess current safely to ground (earth). This reroutes the surge before it has the chance to enter your homes wiring.
SHOWN: General Electric Model THQLSURGE.
Click On Photo To: View, See Details, or Purchase This Item From Amazon.com
Note: We Not Sell Or Install Whole House Surge Protectors.
CLICK THE WHITE ARROW (IN THE CENTER OF THE IMAGE BELOW) TO SEE A WHOLE-HOUSE SURGE PROTECTOR
PROTECTING AN AIR CONDITIONER FROM A (MAN-MADE) EXTERNAL POWER SURGE OF 10,000 VOLTS.
Internal Power Surges
Up to 3/4 of power surges come from inside the home. Internal Power Surges occur several times each day when high electricity-demand devices turn off. Hair dryers, electric portable heaters, and window air conditioners are three of the biggest creators of internal power surges. Since heaters and a/c are controlled by a thermostat, they can cycle on & off many times in a single day. Power surges may also created by older refrigerators and freezers.
If you have seen a light bulb get brighter for a moment, you have witnessed a power surge. When a high-demand electrical device (such as a portable electric heater) shuts off, there is a brief surplus of electricity in the homes electrical wiring. The excess electricity moves into the ground wire, which takes it back to the circuit breaker panel and then into the earth. All this happens very fast, as the electrical wiring is designed to carry excess electricity away.
During that brief moment when excess electricity exists in the home’s electrical wiring, a power surge occurs to every outlet on that circuit (and possibly into other circuits). Today’s HVAC Systems and appliances have sensitive electronics just like computers do. These appliances are subject to tiny amounts of damage each time an internal power surge occurs. Over time, repeated internal power surges shorten the life of electronics & appliances.
Click On The White Arrow (in the center of the image) Below To See A Video About A Washer Damaged By A Power Surge: Washer Damaged By Power Surge
Guarding Against All Power Surges Requires Two Levels Of Defense:
A Whole-House Surge Suppressor(s) — to stop external power spikes.
Individual “Plug-In” Surge Suppressors — to stop small, internal power surges.
Without surge protectors, the only way to protect your: HVAC System, Appliances & Electronics is to disconnect power to them. This is most easily accomplished by turning the circuit breaker off. The problem is, power surges cannot be predicted. Other than disconnecting power, the only way to protect your home’s expensive electronics is to have power surge protectors operating 24/7.
Plug-In Surge Protectors For Internal Power Surges
3/4 of power surges originate inside the home, they are called Internal Power Surges. The Whole-House Surge Protector does not protect your home from surges originating inside the home.
Using Plug-In Surge Protector will guard sensitive appliances and electrical devices from internal power surges. Any device with a digital readout has electronics inside. Today’s appliances typically have sensitive electronics too. If you are in doubt whether an appliance or device needs a surge protector, add one to be sure.
All plug-in surge protectors stop the power surge itself. Additionally, some surge protectors will block the electricity from going past them until the current is stabilized. This style of surge protector will light up to let you know it has power, but will delay allowing electricity through the surge protector until the surge protector is satisfied with the stability of incoming current.
Some brands of surge protectors have an “Delay” Indicator. We show once such brand below. This indicator light is typically yellow, and is lighted while the surge protector monitors the electrical current for stability. Other brands may delay the power, but not indicate that. Check your owner’s manual to how to know if a surge protector has a delay mode, and when it is in delay mode.
Shown: Surge Protector With Delay Light. Products shown do not constitute endorsements by Al’s Plumbing, Heating & A/C.
PLUG-IN POWER SURGE PROTECTORS ARE NOT ALL CREATED EQUAL
SHOWN: Tripp Lite Model TLP1008TE:
Click On Photo To: View Item, See Details, or Purchase From Amazon.com
How Does A Plug In Surge Protector Work? When electrical voltage rises above a safe level, the surge protector has internal components (called varistors) that absorb the excess voltage and divert it to the Surge Protector’s ground wire. The home’s wiring then carries the excess voltage away. This prevents a power surge from from reaching the devices plugged into the surge protector.
Note: Plug In Power Surge protectors Do Not Have The Capacity To Protect Against External Power Surges. The plug in devices are designed to protect against small, internal surges.
One of the biggest concerns with Plug In surge protectors is if they disconnect power (to the items plugged into them) if they become compromised. The only way to be sure is to read the marketing verbiage provided. If they don’t say they disconnect power, the safest route is to assume they don’t.
Tripp Lite Is A Brand Of Plug In Power Surge Protector That Disconnects Power When Compromised. This brand also comes with insurance to replace protected items if the Trip Lite power surge protector fails to protect them. This verbiage came from Tripp Lite’s website (www.tripplite.com) under the heading “Premium Safety Features”. “Automatic shut off cuts power to all outlets when protection has been compromised.” Tripp Lite Sells Surge Protectors In A Multitude Of Different Configurations, From 1 Outlet To Serving Many Devices.
Note: Al’s does not endorse any brand of Surge Protectors only because we don’t have first-hand knowledge of all devices. There may be other brands that also disconnect power.
Power Surges Often Damage HVAC System Components
As shown in the video within this article, power surges can damage HVAC Systems. A central a/c or furnace often stops running after a large power surge. The two most common surges that damage HVAC are lightning strikes or when electricity is restored after an outage.
If the surge is large (like lighting or a short-circuit in the electricity distribution system) — there are other components that are subject to failure in addition to the outside a/c unit or furnace control board. If the power surge is quite large the cost to repair the a/c outside unit may not be justified unless it’s nearly new. In that case, the system must be replaced.
COMMON PROBLEMS A CENTRAL A/C MAY INCUR FOLLOWING A POWER SURGE
Damaged Control Board: The control board is the “brain” for the outdoor unit + there is a second control board in the furnace. Control boards tell the outside unit or furnace which functions to perform, and in what order. Being a sensitive electronic control-board, it is highly subject to damage from a power surge / spike.
Image Source: Amazon embedded link
SHOWN: HVAC System Control Board. There is a specific unit required for each: brand, model and size HVAC System.
Damaged Capacitor: Capacitors are a battery that sends a extra jolt of electricity to start a motor running. There is typically one for the outside unit’s fan and another for the outside unit’s compressor. Another once exists inside the furnace to start the blower motor.
Electrical components that use large amounts of electricity typically need an extra jolt of electricity to start running. Capacitors are the battery that provides the jolt. In a central air conditioner, capacitors serve: the outside unit compressor, the outside unit fan, & the furnace blower fan.
A capacitor is the most common air conditioning part to fail due to a power surge, as a relatively weak power surge can damage a capacitor. Over time a damaged capacitor can damage the a/c’s compressor, as the compressor depends on the extra jolt of electricity from the capacitor to start running. If the compressor does not get that jolt, it may start running anyway. But without the capacitor, the start is extremely hard on the compressor. “Hard starting” is when an AC struggles to turn on and then shuts off in a short time. A compressor can fail due to damage from hard starting.
Image Source: Amazon embedded link
SHOWN: HVAC System Capacitor. There is a specific unit required for each: brand, model and size HVAC System.
Damaged Contactor Relay Switch: This is a low-voltage switch controlled that is controlled by the thermostat inside the house. This low-voltage relay then operates the high-voltage relay switches for the: outside unit compressor, the outside unit fan, & the furnace blower fan. The high-voltage relays turn on 120V electrical power (to fans) or 240V electrical power to the compressor in the outdoor unit.
Image Source: Amazon embedded link
SHOWN: Contact Relay Switch. There is a specific unit required for each: brand, model and size HVAC System.
Damaged Compressor: The compressor moves the refrigerant though the outside unit & the cooling-coil inside the furnace or duct work. Being an electrical device with a lot of wiring, the compressor can be damaged by a large power surge. A small power surge that damages a capacitor can also damage a compressor over time
The cost to replace a central a/c compressor typically exceeds the value of the outdoor unit unless it’s quite new. In most cases, the outdoor unit must be replaced if the compressor is damaged due to a power surge. When looking inside the outdoor unit, the largest component is the compressor.
There are many HVAC components that can be damaged by a power surge. In summer, a power surge can damage the control board in the outside unit + the furnace’s board if the central a/c is running at the time of the surge. A surge caused by a restoration of electricity can damage HVAC — if the thermostat setting is calling for cooling when the power is restored. The HVAC System will start up the moment power is available, and that could be accompanied by the power surge.
Symptoms Of A Central A/C That Is Not Working Correctly
These symptoms tell you something is wrong with your central a/c — regardless of what caused the problem:
Nothing working (thermostat turned off, failed thermostat).
Outside unit suddenly not running (tripped circuit breaker, thermostat changed from “cooling”).
Tripping Circuit Breaker. A/C starts tripping the circuit breaker (overloading the circuit due to malfunction in HVAC system).
Furnace blower suddenly not running (tripped circuit beaker — furnace on separate breaker as outside unit, thermostat changed from “cooling”).
Fan is in the outside unit is not running (capacitor has failed, relay switch has failed, other).
Air coming from the outside unit is not warm (compressor not running).
No air coming from the ducts (furnace blower fan not running, cooling coil inside furnace has iced up due to low refrigerant or failed control switches).
Less air coming from ducts than in the past (dirty air filter needs replaced, dirty cooling-coil — above or inside the furnace).
Output air not as cool as in the past (low refrigerant and / or dirty outside unit).
Refrigerant just recharged, now blowing much colder than in the past (refrigerant overcharged — to much refrigerant).
Warm air blowing inside (compressor not running).
Outside unit is making new noises you have not heard before.
Outside unit shakes when it turns on (compressor is likely hard starting).
Ice is forming on the outside a/c unit (low refrigerant or failed control switches).
“Burned” smell (wiring is burning out).
A/C is running constantly during extremely hot weather. This may not be a problem — the system is trying to keep up.
A/C is running constantly during only warm weather (low refrigerant, dirty outside unit, dirty air filter).
Electricity bill has spiked upward (low refrigerant, dirty outside unit, dirty air filter).
Note: Frost will form on the outside unit of a Heat Pump in winter. It will defrost itself as needed.
Catch HVAC System Problems Before The System Stops Working
Due to its complexity, there are many things that can go wrong with a central a/c system. The Best Defense Is An Annual Maintenance & Cleaning Of components (as needed). The system will be checked for refrigerant level and components that have failed, or are near failing. The system’s operation will be tested to ensure it is working at its maximum cooling ability and energy efficiency.
Your a/c is most likely to stop working when you need it most (because that’s when it is running the most). A failing component (such as a capacitor) may be able to function when the a/c is not cycling a lot, but then fails when heavy demand is placed on it during hot DFW summers.
Discovering upcoming problems will save: being miserable with heat, being inconvenienced, and possibly after-hours repair charges (they are often higher than during normal office hours). It may also catch the need for an inexpensive repair (such as capacitor) from causing very expensive repairs (such as a burned out compressor due to failed capacitor).
HomeProPlumber
Home Pro Plumber provides full service plumbing maintenance, repairs and replacements for every plumbing component in your home. Al’s sells and installs Rheem Professional Series gas & electric water heaters, and tankless water heaters. We are near near your home in Richardson, TX; Garland, TX;and northeastern Dallas, TX. We service all homes in southern Collin County TX and Denton County, TX with no travel charges.
Call Home Pro Plumber today to discuss any concerns or problems you have with your HVAC System or Plumbing. We will arrange an appointment at your convenience and offer 24/7 Emergency Service.
This Article Discusses Residential Natural Gas Pressure Testing. HomeProPlumber provides full service plumbing maintenance, repairs and replacements for every plumbing component in your home. We sell & install Rheem Professional Series gas & electric water heaters, and tankless water heaters. We are near your home in Plano, Allen, Frisco, and McKinney Texas. Homes in southern Collin and Denton Counties incur no additional travel-charges.
HomeProPlumber in Plano, Texas also provides maintenance & repairs for all brands of Central A/C, Gas & Electric Furnace, and Heat Pumps. Additionally we sell and install new HVAC Systems from American Standard (same company as Trane), Ameristar (same company as American Standard) and Coleman HVAC (same company as York HVAC).
Call us today to discuss any concerns or problems you have with your HVAC System or Plumbing. We will arrange an appointment at your convenience and offer 24/7 Emergency Service.
Residential Gas Pressure Testing
Gas pressure testing ensures the gas coming it into the home is at the right pressure. Gas pressure testing requires the temporary installation of a gas pressure gauge. Gas pressure testing requires a permit from your City. Once the testing is completed, an inspection will be performed by the city to ensure everything is correctly restored & safe.
What Natural Gas Is, And How It’s Delivered To Your Home
Methane / Natural gas is a byproduct of decomposing organic matter. Natural gas is predominately methane. Natural gas is colorless, tasteless and (in its natural state) odorless. Utility companies add a distinctive odorant to identify natural gas leaks.
Natural gas delivers to your home by pipeline. Compressor stations move the gas through major pipelines at 750 psi (pounds per square inch). The major gas pipelines deliver the gas to your local utility’s gas-supply grid. There, the gas pressure is regulated down and fed into the gas distribution system. Next, individual service lines deliver gas to the structures. As gas enters your home, its pressure is typically around .25 psi (1/4 of 1 pound).
There is a regulator beside the gas meter to control the gas pressure coming into your home. The regulator is typically round. The Gas-Pressure Regulator is designed to shut off the gas flow (coming into the house) when no gas is being used. When gas is needed, the regulator opens just enough to allow that amount of gas through.
The regulator can adjust to any level of gas demand at any given time. The regulator can be adjusted to allow more or less gas into the house, based on the number of gas burning devices. Since any home can have one or more gas-fired devices (furnace, water heater, fireplace, clothes dryer, & gas cooking appliances) the gas pressure is adjusted to accommodate all devices that exist.
Image Source: CanStockPhoto
SHOWN: Residential Natural Gas Meter. The Gas-Pressure Regulator Is The Round Component On The Left
Once the gas is inside your home, the nozzles inside gas burning devices are designed to permit a specific gas flow at a specific gas pressure. Too much gas pressure means too much gas flow. Too much gas flowing into your furnace causes more heat to be generated than the furnace is designed for. If your furnace fan and exhaust flue cannot carry the heat away fast enough, the furnace will overheat and shut down to protect itself and you.
There is a risk of fire from any gas-fired device overheating due to too much gas flowing into it. For this reason, gas burning devices have their own gas regulator. If the gas pressure is too high, the regulator shuts off all gas coming into the device, such as a furnace (as a safety feature). Though the furnace’s regulator stops the risk of overheating, it also shuts the furnace down.
Gas Pressure Testing
A Gas Pressure Test Requires A Permit From Your City. A city official perform an inspection to ensure everything is up to code and safe. Once inspected & approved, the temporary meter is removed and the gas can be turned back on.
WARNING: Improper Inspection & Testing Methods Involving Gas Pressure Create Dangerous Conditions And The Risk Of A Gas Explosion. A trained technician must perform all gas pressure testing. The purpose of the city permit is to ensure the technician doing the test is qualified. Additionally, their work is inspected by a city inspector.
We Do Not Provide DIY Instructions For Gas Pressure Testing.
We Do Not Advise Nor Encourage You To Do Gas Pressure Testing Yourself.
Gas pressure determines how fast gas can flow into a gas-burning device. While gas devices have the ability to regulate if gas pressure coming in is too high, they often don’t have the ability to deal with gas pressure that’s too low. If the gas pressure is too low, it may affect the ability of gas burning device to operate correctly. In that case, the devices will shut down to protect themselves and your home.
It’s very important the gas pressure entering the home and each gas device is correct. Gas pressure testing ensures the right pressure coming into the home or a specific gas-burning device. Once testing is completed, a city official will perform an inspection to ensure everything is up to code and safe. Once inspected & approved, the gas can be turned back on.
Image Source: www.canstockphoto.com (c) Can Stock Photo / scanrail
SHOWN: Industrial Gas Pressure Gauges
CLICK BELOW SEE HOW A GAS-PRESSURE REGULATOR WORKS
The nozzles in the gas fired devices in your home are sized to permit a specific gas flow at a specific gas pressure. Too much gas pressure means too much gas flow. Too much gas flowing into your furnace causes more heat to be generated than the furnace is designed for.
If a furnace overheats, it shuts down to protect itself. This is also true of your gas water heater and gas clothes dryer. There is a risk of fire from any gas-fired device overheating due to too much gas flowing into it. For this reason, these products almost always have their own gas regulator (in addition to the one for the house by the gas meter).
If the gas pressure is too high, the regulator can adjust the pressure downward to what’s needed. A furnace’s gas-pressure regulator can fail, and too much gas pressure would cause the furnace to overheat. As mentioned earlier, the furnace will shut down to protect itself and your home.
WHAT HAPPENS IF GAS PRESSURE IS TOO LOW
If gas pressure is too low, the gas-fired device can’t work properly and will shut down. There are many safety devices to protect gas burning devices in the event gas pressure is too high or too low. Gas furnaces all have a “Flame Sensor”. If the Flame Sensor cannot determine that a proper flame exists when gas is flowing, it shuts the gas off to the burners. If gas pressure is too low, the flame will be too small for the Flame Sensor’s requirements and the furnace will shut down to protect itself, you & your home.
HomeProPlumber
This Article Discusses The Causes Of Common Water Pipes Noises. HomeProPlumber provides full service plumbing maintenance, repairs and replacements for every plumbing component in your home. We sell & install Rheem Professional Series gas & electric water heaters, and tankless water heaters. We are near your home in Plano, Allen, Frisco, and McKinney Texas. Homes in southern Collin and Denton Counties incur no additional travel-charges.
HomeProPlumber in Plano, Texas also provides maintenance & repairs for all brands of Central A/C, Gas & Electric Furnace, and Heat Pumps. Additionally we sell and install new HVAC Systems from American Standard (same company as Trane), Ameristar (same company as American Standard) and Coleman HVAC (same company as York HVAC).
Call us today to discuss any concerns or problems you have with your HVAC System or Plumbing. We will arrange an appointment at your convenience and offer 24/7 Emergency Service.
This Article Discusses The Causes Of Common Water Pipes Noises. HomeProPlumber provides full service plumbing maintenance, repairs and replacements for every plumbing component in your home. We sell & install Rheem Professional Series gas & electric water heaters, and tankless water heaters. We are near your home in Plano, Allen, Frisco, and McKinney Texas. Homes in southern Collin and Denton Counties incur no additional travel-charges. HomeProPlumber in Plano, Texas also provides maintenance & repairs for all brands of Central A/C, Gas & Electric Furnace, and Heat Pumps. Additionally we sell and install new HVAC Systems from American Standard (same company as Trane), Ameristar (same company as American Standard) and Coleman HVAC (same company as York HVAC).
Call us today to discuss any concerns or problems you have with your HVAC System or Plumbing. We will arrange an appointment at your convenience and offer 24/7 Emergency Service.
NOTE: The Plumbing Components Shown In This Article Are Typical Of What Is Installed In Home Across The U.S.
This Article Is Written For Homes In The Dallas / Ft. Worth Area.
The Locations Of Some Components Varies In Other Areas Of the U.S.
Whistling, Squealing or Banging Water Pipes Noises — Causes & Cures
Plus Other Common Water Pipes Noises
The normal sound of water running through a pipe can’t be prevented. However, other noises (whistling, rattling, creaks, tapping, or loud banging noises) the water flow has been affected by one of several factors.
Common Water Pipes Noises And How To Fix Them
Whistling or squealing water pipe noises often result from water being forced through a smaller opening than the plumbing components were designed for.
This is often due to:
water pressure too high
wear & tear on plumbing components
water mineral build-up resulting in smaller openings
other types of degradation
SQUEALING / WHISTLING
Water Pipes Noises Are Typically Related To Water Pressure And / Or Flow Velocity.
The higher the water water pressure or velocity (speed of water flow) the more likely the pipes are to whistle or squeal. The noise can sometimes be reduced or eliminated by reducing water pressure OR water flow rate. Normal water pressure coming into a home is 45- 55 Pounds Per Square Inch (psi). Water pressure should not exceed 60 psi. Your home’s water supply lines were designed to work best at around 50 psi water pressure at the locationwhere water enters the house (the water-main line). Beyond that, individual lines have lower water pressure. The water main-line pressure is high enough to ensure several water sources can be flowing at the same time with adequate pressure for each.
You Can Do A Simple Test To See If Water Pressure Is Contributing To Squeals or Whistles : If the noise is at a faucet or toilet where a wall shut-off valve exists, partially close the wall shut-off valve to see if the noise goes away.
NOTE: You may not be able to turn the handle, over time, water-shut offs can corrode. Forcing them can damage the shut-off and cause it to leak. If the shut-off does not turn under normal pressure from your hand,don’t force it.
Image Source: Flicker
Shown: Toilet Shut Off Valve Shown On The Left Side Of Toilet
Test Water Pressure With A Gauge That Screws Onto An Outside Faucet
NOTE: New residential plumbing codes typically require a pressure reducing valve be installed when the home is built. Depending on your home’s age, a water pressure reducing valve may or may not exist. Because of its distinctive “up-side-down ice cream cone” appearance, a water pressure reducing valve is easily identified.
Where To Find The Water Pressure Reducing-Valve In DFW Homes (If One Is Installed)
Click On Photo To: See, View Details, or Purchase It Valve From Amazon.com.
The Water Pressure Reducing-Valve is located on the homeowner’s side of the water meter.
It may be located inside the (underground) box:
Where the water meter is.
Where the home’s main water is.
These boxes almost always have a green , removable lid.
In DFW slab homes, there is no access to the water inlet from inside the house — the water shut-off is outside. If there is no pressure reducing valve in either box, the home likely does not have one. Pressure-reducing valves were not always required by Building Code.
Shown: Typical Underground Box Where Water Meter & The Home’s Main Water Shut Off Is Located.
Click On Photo To: See, View Details, or Purchase It From Amazon.com.
An Older Pressure Reducing Valve May No Longer Work
An older Pressure Reducing Valve may have failed due to wear & tear, or mineral deposits build-up (from the water). If you see mineral deposits on your shower heads and faucets, you likely have mineral deposit build ups inside other areas of your plumbing.
Image Source: Dreamstime ID 113255050
Shown: Shower Head Clogged With Mineral Deposits
Other Factors That Contribute To Whistling / Squealing Water Pipes Noises
If the water pressure in your home is normal (around 50 psi) and you have squealing pipes, there are likely other factors causing the squeal. In faucets and valves, squealing can be caused by a worn out washer in a shut off valve.
Squealing may be due to wear & tear of a shut off valve’s rubber washers, or the valve’s seat may be worn (area just below the black rubber washer / seal) This can be at the wall shut off valve or the faucet itself.
It could also be due to mineral build up. Any of these problems can create reduced water-flow below what the faucet was designed for — resulting in a squeal.
NOTE: Over the years, Building Code was changed to require lever shut off valves instead of round handle versions. This is because the round handle shut off valves are more prone to failure. Their design requires them to move downward as they close. Mineral deposits often build up, rendering the valve unable to close.
OLD STYLE (ROUND HANDLE) WATER SHUT OFF VALVE
Image Source: Dreamstime ID 118503423
Shown: Old Style (Round) Water Shut Off Valve Below
CURRENT STYLE (LEVER HANDLE) BALL VALVE WITH 1/4-TURN OPERATION
Shown: Today’s Current Lever-Style Water Ball alve With 1/4-Turn Operation
Today’s lever valves turn to the right or left when opening / closing. This allows them to deal with mineral deposits much better, often they can clear small amounts of mineral deposits as they are turned on or off.
NOTE: Many Municipalities Require An Old Style Style Shut Off Valve Be Replaced With Lever-Style When New Work Is Done On Plumbing (such as water heater replacement).
SQUEALING Can Also Be Caused By A Clogged Faucet Aerator
Shown: Faucet Aerator Clogged With Mineral Deposits
WATER HAMMER Water Pipes Noises
Water pipe noises that sound like a bang when you turn off a faucet are Water Hammer. It’s caused when water is rushing through the pipe and the faucet is turned off, bringing the water flow to an abrupt halt. This can rattle the water pipes, or make a loud band.
Typically there air chambers (water hammer arresters) connected to the pipe (inside the wall) behind faucets. These air chambers allow a place for water to go when the faucet is turned off. The water will briefly push up into the air chamber where it hits a cushion of air. This prevents the water force from causing the pipes to rattle or bang. Over the years, hammering may develop due to water hammer arrester failure.
BUILT-IN (SOLDERED IN PLACE) WATER HAMMER ARRESTER (INSIDE WALL)
When new homes are built, water hammer arresters are added to the plumbing inside the walls near each water outlet (faucets, toilets,etc.). Over the years, some arresters may fail and lose the air inside them. These devices are inside the walls and cannot be seen. Some screw into a fitting, others are soldered in.
Click On Photo To: See, View Details, or Purchase It From Amazon.com.
Water Hammer At Toilet
Another common water pipes noises is from toilet(s). If you hear a bang or rattle at the end of the tank’s fill cycle, it is likely a worn Fill Valve (also called ballcock assembly). This component is responsible for refilling the tank after each flush.
YOU CAN STOP WATER HAMMER FROM TOILET WITH A DEDICATED HAMMER ARRESTOR FOR TOILET
Click On Photo To: See, View Details, or Purchase It From Amazon.com.
Fedicated water hammer arrester for a toilet can be installed DIY. Many are designed to screw onto the threads from the wall shut off valve. The other end is designed so the water line (for the toilet) to connect to it. This eliminates modifying the existing plumbing, and the arrester is mostly out of sight from above.
TAPPING / TICKING Water Pipes Noises
These sounds are typically due to expansion & contraction of the water pipes. Hot water heats the pipe causing it to expand. Once the water stops flowing, the pipe cools and the metal contracts. During water pipe expansion or contraction, you may hear tapping or ticking. The source is often where the hot water pipe runs through wood IF the pipe is going through a hole where it fits tightly.
If The Noisy Pipe Is Running Through Wood (Inside A Tightly Fitting Hole)
This is often the location of the noise. If you can enlarge the size of the hole, that may stop the ticking (if that is the location of the problem). If you are not able to enlarge the hole, you may be able to reduce or eliminate the noise by spraying around the hole with Food-Grade Machine Oil Spray.
Click On Photo To: See, View Details, or Purchase This Food Grade Machine Oil Spray From Amazon.com.
While first application(s) may soak into the wood, several applications may eventually get enough product on the wood to saturate it. We recommend food-grade oil to minimize or eliminate toxic products sprayed inside your home. This product is described as “NSF H1 registered for incidental food contact”.
MINIMIZE WATER PIPES NOISES With Foam Pipe Insulation
If you can’t find the exact location of the tapping / ticking, perhaps the next best way to minimize the ticking / tapping noise it is to put foam insulation around the pipe. This noise typically comes from hot water pipes expanding & contracting. Insulating them will allow them to cool off more slowly, minimizing the rapid noise once water is turned off. Unless that water pipe is used quite frequently, you will still hear the noise as the pipes heat up — though the noise may be quieter due to the insulation.
Click On Image To: View Product, See Details, or Purchase From Amazon. com
NOTES:
Water pipes and foam insulation come in different diameters. Measure the width of the pipe to get the correct size foam insulation.
Foam insulation is pre-cut. All you need to do is push it into place with the pipe aligning to the slit in the insulation.
The insulation will open up a bit and then wrap itself around the pipe.
Pipe Rattling While Water Is Running
This type of water pipes noises is caused by rattling comes of a loosely attached pipe.This allows a water pipe to vibrate or rattle while water is running. When a loose pipe vibrates against something solid you, will hear a rattle while water is flowing. This is mostly with metal water pipes. Most newer homes have PEX (vinyl) water pipes.
Secure The Pipe Tightly At The Location Of The Rattle.
If You Can’t Find The Location Of The Rattle, Add Foam Pipe Insulation Where Pipes Are Exposed. This will reduce the noise because the foam absorbs both noise and some of the movement causing the rattling.
NOTE: If you add water pipe fastening devices, check to be sure they are compatible with the type of water pipes your home has. Many different types of pipes require special types of fasteners.
Click On Photo To: See Product, View Details, or Purchase It From Amazon.com.
This Fastener Is For Copper Pipes. Click On Photo To: See Product, View Details, or Purchase This Product From Amazon.com.
This Fastener Is For Many Types Of Flexible Plastic Water Lines.
To stop pipe rattling put some foam water pipe insulation cushioning around the pipe OR fasten the strapping more securely. NOTE: If you add water pipe fastening devices, check to be sure they are compatible with the type of water pipes your home has. Many different types of pipes require special types of fasteners.
HomeProPlumber
This Article Discussed What Causes Common Water Pipe Noises. HomeProPlumber provides full service plumbing maintenance, repairs and replacements for every plumbing component in your home. We sell & install Rheem Professional Series gas & electric water heaters, and tankless water heaters. We are near your home in Richardson, Garland, and northeast Dallas, Texas. Homes in southern Collin and Denton Counties incur no additional travel-charges.
HomeProPlumber in Plano, Texas also provides maintenance & repairs for all brands of Central A/C, Gas & Electric Furnace, and Heat Pumps. Additionally we sell and install new HVAC Systems from American Standard (same company as Trane), Ameristar (same company as American Standard) and Coleman HVAC (same company as York HVAC).
Call us today to discuss any concerns or problems you have with your HVAC System or Plumbing. We will arrange an appointment at your convenience and offer 24/7 Emergency Service.
This Article Discusses The Top 10 Signs That A Water Heater Is About To Fail.
HomeProPlumber provides full service plumbing maintenance, repairs and replacements for every plumbing component in your home. We sell & install Rheem Professional Series gas & electric water heaters, and tankless water heaters. We are near your home in Plano, Allen, Frisco, and McKinney Texas. Homes in southern Collin and Denton Counties incur no additional travel-charges. HomeProPlumber in Plano, Texas also provides maintenance & repairs for all brands of Central A/C, Gas & Electric Furnace, and Heat Pumps. Additionally we sell and install new HVAC Systems from American Standard (same company as Trane), Ameristar (same company as American Standard) and Coleman HVAC (same company as York HVAC).
Call us today to discuss any concerns or problems you have with your HVAC System or Plumbing. We will arrange an appointment at your convenience and offer 24/7 Emergency Service.
How Long Can You Expect A Water Heater To Last
Click Here To See A Water Heater Diagram For Both Gas and Electric Water Heater: Water Heater Diagram
How To Determine The Age Of A Water Heater.The first 3 digits of the serial number tell you the month and year it was made. The months are A = January and going up from there. The next two numbers represent the year the water heater was built.
If you are researching signs that your water heater is failing, you will likely have a new one in the near future. This seems a good time to advise how to extend the new water heater’s lifespan. Water heaters don’t need a lot of care, and simply flushing it annually will have a notable effect on how long it lasts. Just below, we give details about the 2 things you can do to ensure your new water heater lasts as long as possible.
How Long A Water Heater Lasts Depends On:
Image Source: ShutterStock
SHOWN: Water Heater Build-Up Resulting From Minerals In The Water
Water heaters typically last 8-12 years. How long yours will last depends on:
If It’s Maintained: Annual Flushes & Anode Rod(s) Replacement
How hot the water heater is set. The hotter it’s set, the more it runs, leading to earlier failure.
How “Hard” your water is (explained below)
How many people live in the home
The Most Important Thing That You Can Do To
Extend The Life Of Your Water Heater Is To Flush It Annually
During heating, naturally-occurring minerals, such as calcium & magnesium, form into sediment particles that settle to the bottom of the tank (known as sediment build-up). Depending on the source of the water, some water has higher levels of minerals.
GAS WATER HEATERS
Image Source: ShutterStock
Shown: Gas Water Heater
Sediment Build Up causes a GAS water heater to run longer & hotter. This is because the sediment at the bottom of the tank must be heated before heat can reach the water. Build up also causes “hot spots” in the bottom of the tank. A Hot Spot is an area where there is little or no build-up present. Because the water heater must run longer and hotter (due to build-up) some areas of the bottom of the tank become hotter than other areas.
Metal expands when heated and contracts as it cools. This causes stress on the metal that eventually causes the metal to crack, and the water heater starts leaking. Once the tank is cracked, the water heater must be replaced. The #1 reason water heaters must be replaced is because their tank cracks, or rusts through, and starts leaking.
Minimizing build-up allows a gas water heater to operate as designed to. It heats for shorter periods of time which causes less expansion / contraction of the bottom of the tank. The bottom also heats more evenly, minimizing hot spots that expand / contract more that other ares of the tank’s bottom.
ELECTRIC WATER HEATERS
Shown: Electric Water Heater
ELECTRIC water heaters have 2 heating elements inside the tank. One is near the top and the other is near the bottom of the tank. As build up occurs, it often covers the lower heating element, causing it to fail. Heating elements can be replaced, thus extending the life of the water heater. ddepending on the age of the water heater, the cost of replacing an element may not be justified.
Because electric water heaters generate heat inside the tank (versus under the tank in gas water heaters) there is notably less expansion / contraction at the bottom of the tank. Over time, however, the tank will crack or rust through and start leaking.
If A Water Heater Gets Annual Flushes From When It’s New, It Will Last Longer.
NOTE: Flushing A Older Water Heater, After Years Of Neglect, Often Causes It to Start Leaking.
The 2nd Most Important Thing You Can Do To Extend The Life Of Your Water Heater Is To
Replace The Anode Rod(s) When They Wear Out.
The Anode Rod attracts the corrosive elements in water that lead to rusting of the metal water tank.
The two top reasons for water tank failure are stress-cracks that form from metal expanding & contracting AND rust-through of the steel water tank. Once the water tank starts leaking, the water heater must be replaced.
Anode Rods are typically made of magnesium, which is an easily corroded metal. Because the anode rod is made of “softer” metal, it attracts the corrosive elements in water to it, versus them corroding the steel water tank.
Anode rods wear out long before the water heater does. Once they are worn out (they actually disintegrate) — the corrosive elements in the water become attracted to the only other metal, the steel water tank. Replacing worn out Anode Rods ensures that they are always present to attract corrosive properties in the water. If anode rods are present, the steel water tank’s lifespan is maximize.
NOTE: Replacing anode rods is not easy, as they are installed very tight. If you are unsure of what you are doing, attempting to remove Anode Rods can damage the water heater or break the water pipes attached to it. Unless you are incredibly handy, this is a job best left to professionals.
SHOWN: Multi-Section Anode Rod.
These are easier to install than one-piece anode rods because often there is not enough room overhead to replace a one-piece anode rod. That would require the water heater to be disconnected, pulled out and the anode rod(s) replaced. Then the water heater must be reinstalled. Removing and reinstalling the water heater would cost more than the value the new anode rod presents (in the form of longer water heater lifespan).
10 Signs Of Water Heater Failure In The Near Future
You Are Starting To Run Out Of Hot Water
WITH A GAS WATER HEATER: This is typically a sign that a tremendous amount of sediment has built up at the bottom of the water tank. Because the burner is under the water tank, it must first heat all the sediment before it can heat the water. During heating, a gas water heater with extensive sediment will “pop”. We describe the noise in detail later in this article.
Photo Source: CanStockPhoto
SHOWN: Electric Water Heater Heating Element
WITH AN ELECTRIC WATER HEATER: This may mean THAT 1 OF THE 2 heating elements has failed. It may also mean the lower element is covered with sediment (that typically burns the element out). If an electric water heater needs a heating element,this is a replaceable part. If an element is tested and determined to have failed, replace only the heating element if the water heater is newer. With an older unit, the cost to replace the element may not be justified.
Because the heat for the water is generated inside the tank (electric water heater) versus below the tank (gas water heater) — the water tank is subject to less expansion and contraction in an electric water heater. In general, this means an electric water heater’s water tank will last longer. If a heating element has failed, you may get several more years of service by replacing the failed heating element.
Water Leaking At Its Base
You Are Increasingly Likely To See This As The Water Heater Gets Older. This typically means the water heater’s tank has either cracked or rusted through, and the water heater must be replaced.
Click Here To See A Water Heater That Is Leaking At Its Base: Leaking Water Heater
Why A Water Heater Starts Leaking:Cracks in the tank are caused by expansion & contraction of the metal water tank during each heating cycle. While heating, the tank expands. Once heating stops, the tank contracts. Eventually this will cause a fracture in the metal water tank leading to leak.
When new, the water tank has a porcelain lining (also known as a glass liner). Over the years the lining fails, allowing water to get to the steel water tank. Once the glass liner fails, the steel water tank starts rusting. Over time, the steel tank will likely rust all the way through. You can reduce the rusting by replacing the Anode Rods as needed.
Click Below To See Inside A New Water Heater’s Tank.
The Blue Liner Is The Porcelain On The Steel Tank. Often referred to as the “glass liner”.
NOTE: One Exception To Water At The Bottom Of The Water Heater May Be If
The Water Is Under The Pipe Running Down The Side Of The Water Heater Toward The Floor.
If the water is there, it may be due to the water having gotten too hot and the safety-valve opened to release pressure and / or water. A single occasion of this is not likely a problem. BUT if it’s happening repeatedly, the water heater is showing signs of a dangerous pattern of overheating the water. The water heater must be inspected right away.
Photo Source: Can Stock Photo
SHOWN: See The White pipe coming across the water heater’s top & down the side.
Rumbling Or Popping
The noise is harmless, but excessive sediment leads to early water heater failure:
Eventually causes a leak–Sediment slows heat transfer to the water. This causes the water heater’s water tank to become hotter than it was designed to be. This will damage the inner glass lining and weaken the steel water tank. Eventually the tank begins to leak.
Damages the electric heating element— If enough sediment covers the electric heating element, it will burn out.
Sediment from the water builds up on the bottom of the tank. If the water heater is not flushed annually, sediment eventually becomes hard. When this happens, you often hear rumbling or popping sounds while the heater is heating. Once you hear those sounds, you will typically have water heater failure within a year or two. You can continue to safely use it until water heater failure occurs.
This means the water tank now has so much rust that the water coming from the water heater has rust within it. This is a clear sign that water heater failure is near. Water tanks are never replaced, the water heater is replaced.
Hot Water Is Cloudy Or Has A Metallic Smell & Taste
The water heater’s steel water tank is corroded. Grit & flakes from the water tank are combining with the water supply. This requires a water heater replacement. If the water heater has not started leaking, it will soon. Water heater failure will occur in the near future.
It may be possible to minimize the corrosion and stop it from continuing.
If water is leaking where the water pipe connects to the water heater’s nipples / connectors, it’s too late. The connectors have corroded through, and the water heater will have to be replaced.
If there is a plastic ring (a dielectric union) where the two pipes meet, it is there to prevent two dissimilar metals from touching (and corroding as a result). This is a correctwater heater installation.
What causes the corrosion? Two dissimilar metals are reacting with each other. Typically a copper water line is connected to galvanized-steel water heater nipples / connectors (on the water heater) without the plastic ring (dielectric union) installed to keep the two metals from touching.
NOTE: The water line may be able to be disconnected. If it can, then as much corrosion as possible removed with with the wire-brush. Then install the plastic (dielectric union) insert, and reattach the water pipe. This will prevent further corrosion. There there is nothing more you can do about existing corrosion beyond removing as much as possible).
NOTE: If there is a leak, the corrosion is rusted all the way through and there is nothing more that can be done. The water heater must be replaced.
NOTE: Attempting to unhook the water line from the water heater can result in starting a leak. When too much corrosion is present, forcing the water line connector with high pressure can break the corrosion loose and start a leak. Unless you are extremely handy, this task is best left to a plumber who can determine if the corrosion is too extensive.
NOTE: A spinning wire-brush on a drill will speed this process tremendously and ensure as much corrosion is removed as possible.
The Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve Has Failed (stuck shut)
This Presents A Strong Danger Of The Water Heater EXPLODING!
All water heaters have a safety relief valve to release excess pressure and / or water if the water heater fails and continues to heat. If this valve fails the tank can explodewith the force of a small bomb. This often damages or destroys the home and can injure or kill occupants.
The Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve Must Be Tested Once A Year To Ensure It’s Working Properly.
This Valve Is There Entirely For Your Safety. If It Has Failed, It Must Be Replaced Immediately! The T & P Valve Is A Replaceable Part.
Click Here To See The Effects Of An Exploding Water Heater In Arizona:
Put a bucket under the discharge pipe coming from the T& P Valve. Don’t skip this step — very hot water will discharge during the test.
Pull the lever outward / away from the water heater for 5 seconds. During this time hot water will discharge into the bucket if the valve is working properly
Burn marks may indicate improper venting is causing back-drafting. This is a venting problem, and does not necessarily mean the water heater must be replaced.
Backdrafting Indicates That Carbon Monoxide Is Not Existing Your Home Properly.
The exhaust is coming into your home’s living space (if that is where the water heater is located). If the water heater is in the garage or attic, exhaust gases can still enter through air leaks in your home. This condition must be repaired to ensure your safety. Problem # 2:Burn marks may indicate the flue pipes located insidethe water heater are blocked or damaged. This is also an unsafe condition which can cause improper venting of exhaust gases. If this is the problem, a new gas water heater is needed immediately.
Yellow Flame At Burner Of A GAS Water Heater
Photo Source: Can Stock Photo
SHOWN: Yellow Flames From A Gas Burner
When your water heater is running, there should be an even blue flame. This is typically a correctable problem that does not require a new water heater. If The Flame Is Yellow Or Orange:
There is not enough air coming into the water heater’s combustion-area (where the burner is located).
Or, it can also mean a venting problem exists. This condition means the burner or the venting needs to be serviced to ensure your safety. If the venting is not correct, it’s possible carbon monoxide is coming into your home.
Or, it could mean the burner is failing, but this is rare.
HomeProPlumber
HomeProPlumber provides full service plumbing maintenance, repairs and replacements for every plumbing component in your home. We sell & install Rheem Professional Series gas & electric water heaters, and tankless water heaters. We are near your home in Plano, Allen, Frisco, and McKinney Texas. Homes in southern Collin and Denton Counties incur no additional travel-charges. HomeProPlumber in Plano, Texas also provides maintenance & repairs for all brands of Central A/C, Gas & Electric Furnace, and Heat Pumps. Additionally we sell and install new HVAC Systems from American Standard (same company as Trane), Ameristar (same company as American Standard) and Coleman HVAC (same company as York HVAC).
Call us today to discuss any concerns or problems you have with your HVAC System or Plumbing. We will arrange an appointment at your convenience and offer 24/7 Emergency Service.
This Article Discusses What A Sewer Clean Out Is, And Where It’s Located For DFW Homes.
NOTE: IF YOU LIVE OUTSIDE THE DALLAS / FT. WORTH, TX AREA,
ONLY THE FINAL SECTION OF THIS ARTICLE IS OF VALUE TO YOU (SEWER LINES MAINTENANCE).
HomeProPlumber provides full service plumbing maintenance, repairs and replacements for every plumbing component in your home. We sell & install Rheem Professional Series gas & electric water heaters, and tankless water heaters. We are near your home in Plano, Allen, Frisco, and McKinney Texas. Homes in southern Collin and Denton Counties incur no additional travel-charges. HomeProPlumber in Plano, Texas also provides maintenance & repairs for all brands of Central A/C, Gas & Electric Furnace, and Heat Pumps. Additionally we sell and install new HVAC Systems from American Standard (same company as Trane), Ameristar (same company as American Standard) and Coleman HVAC (same company as York HVAC).
Call us today to discuss any concerns or problems you have with your HVAC System or Plumbing. We will arrange an appointment at your convenience and offer 24/7 Emergency Service.
What & Where Is A Sewer Clean Out?
Shown: Lawn Sewer Clean Out
Image Source: ShutterStock
A Sewer Clean Out Is Where A Home’s Sewer Main Line
Can Be Accessed For The Purpose Of Clearing Clogs.
Additionally, Sinks On Exterior Walls Have Exterior Clean Outs.
Newer DFW homes, and home with newer replacement sewer lines, typically have a clean out in the lawn. Lawn clean out are now required by Building Codes. In Texas & Municipality Plumbing Codes generally match the International Plumbing Code (IPC). From at least 2012, the International Plumbing Code (IPC) requires “two way” sewer clean outs in the lawn (allows access under the house & in the lawn toward the city sewer main).
The clean out will be located quite close to the edge of the house.
It will be located on the side of the house (front or rear) based on the location of the City’s Sewer Mains.
Often the clean out may be covered with mulch or debris.
Unless The Sewer Lines In The Lawn Has Been Replaced,
Many Older DFW Homes Do Not Have A Clean Out In The Lawn.
If the home does not have a clean out in the lawn, access to the sewer is through a plumbing vent pipe on the roof.
Shown: Access To Sewer Lines Is Through The Sewer Vent Pipes (the white pipes near the middle of the left side of photo)
Image Source: DreamsTime
What A Lawn Sewer Line Clean Out Looks Like
Clean outs typically have a white, screw-off, removable cap. From that access point, sewer line clearing machines can go both under the house and into the lawn (toward the city sewer line) to find and clear the clog.
In DFW newer homes have a sewer main clean out access located in the lawn.
SHOWN: Sewer Line Clean Out With Screw Top.
Click On The Photo To View, See Details, Or Purchase This Item From Amazon.com.
In newer DFW homes, the Sewer Clean Out may be inside a plastic box with a removable green lid. Due to its location, it is possible the clean out may be covered with rock or mulch — as it’s typically located within planting-beds close to the house.
SHOWN: Lawn Connection Box With Cover.
Click On The Photo To View, See Details, Or Purchase This Item From Amazon.com.
Clean Outs For Smaller Drain Lines Are Often Accessed Through Smaller Clean Outs In Exterior Walls.
When kitchen or bath sinks are located on an outside wall, there is a small clean out (for only that sink’s drain line) built into the wall, and accessed from outside through a removable cap.
SHOWN: 2″ Sewer Clean Out With Cap.
Click On The Photo To View, See Details, Or Purchase This Item From Amazon.com.
In DFW homes, there are typically clean outs in exterior walls near sinks. They are accessed from outside. Only the removable plug (and connection it screws into) are visible from outside. Depending on the age of the home, the exterior wall clean outs may be: White Plastic, Metal, or ABS / black plastic.
Drain Lines Accumulate Build-Up (often called sludge) On Their Interior Surfaces.
The Most Common Build-Ups Are Due To Fats, Oils, & Grease Poured Into Drains.
The Environmental Protection Agency Estimates That Nearly Half Of All Sewer Backups Are Related To Grease Poured Into Drains. Here is what happens when grease is poured into a drain. As it moves down the sewer line, grease starts to cool and becomes a semi-solid and sticks to the walls of the sewer pipe. Fats, Oils, & Grease mix with chemicals & solids in the sewers and form masses that build up and eventually block sewer pipes.
Of particular problem is FOG mixing with “flushable” Baby Wipes.These wipes do not degrade like toilet paper. Instead, they move down the sewer line or a short distance and settle to the bottom of the pipe. This Happens: Under Your Home, In Your Lawn, and In The City’s Sewer lines.
In This Test, Toilet Paper Took 2-1/2 Minutes To Disintegrate. After 20 hours, 3 different brands of wipes were the same as when flushed.
2018 News Reports Detailed A Manufacturer Of White King Brand “Flushable” Wipes Was Fined $700,000 The wipes were advertised as “just like toilet paper” though they do not disintegrate in the sewer system. A Federal Court found the wipes manufacturer, Pental Products, guilty of false & misleading representations. In particular, Pental claimed that the wipes would break down in the sewerage system like toilet paper does.
Future Sewer Clogs Can Often Be Prevented
Once A Build-Up Starts Accumulating, It Will Eventually Clog Your Home’s Sewer.
Sewer Lines Maintenance /Cleaning
To Avoid Build Up — Use An Enzymatic Drain Cleaner On A Regular Basis
Enzyme drain cleaners do not have chemicals.
Enzyme drain cleaners contain bacteria cultures & enzymes that respond to the presence of organic substances.
This type of drain cleaner is for maintenance of pipes, it’s not for clogs.
Enzymatic drain cleaners are a much safer alternative to chemical drain cleaners. There are many brands of Enzymatic Drain Cleaners. Enzyme drain cleaners are used mostly for sewer pipe maintenance. Possibly the best enzyme drain cleaner brand is BIO-CLEAN. It is sold and recommended by Al’s Plumbing, Heating, and Air Conditioning. If the drain is already clogged, try a plunger or drain-snake.
SHOWN: BIO-Clean
Click On The Photo To View, See Details, Or Purchase This Item From Amazon.com.
Description From Manufacturer: BIO-CLEAN is a special combination of natural bacteria & enzymes that DIGESTS organic waste located in your plumbing system such as: grease, hair, soap scum, food particles & other organic wastes. Monthly BIO-CLEAN treatments are likely keep your drain lines clean and trouble-free In nature, all organic matter is broken down and recycled by enzymes and bacteria.
BIO-CLEAN uses this same principal to biodegrade organic waste that accumulates in your plumbing system. The enzymes are very fast and start breaking down waste. BIO-CLEAN contains billions of bacteria, and they double in number every 30 minutes! Unrestricted by gravity, they spread through the entire plumbing system devouring organic waste. BIO-CLEAN has no effect on inorganic materials such as sewer lines.
BIO-CLEAN does not product heat, fumes or bubbling like manychemical drain cleaners. BIO-CLEAN is safe for plumbing and the environment. BIO-CLEAN is approved by the U.S.D.A for use in Meat and Poultry Plants. Enzymatic drain cleaners have an added advantage for homes with a septic system (where no city sewer is available). Enzymatic drain cleaners were originally designed and used to help maintain septic tanks. A common product sold for septic tanks is Rid-X. The bacteria & enzymes can’t eat non-organic items such as sewer pipes and the interiors of septic tanks.
Click On The Photo To View, See Details, Or Purchase This Item From Amazon.com.
SHOWN: Rid-X Was Designed As A Septic Tank Treatment. It Uses Enzymes & Bacterial To Help Clear Septic Tanks.
If You Have Already Used Chemical Drain Cleaners (That Did Not Clear The Clog)
Don’t Use A Plunger Or Drain-Snake After A Chemical Drain Cleaner Was Used.
You Risk Getting Chemical Drain Cleaner On Your Skin Or Into Your Eyes.
Plunger
Before Using A Chemical Drain Cleaner
Attempt To Clear The Clog With A Plunger Or Drain Snake
SHOWN ABOVE: Toilet Plunger.
Click On The Photo To View, See Details, Or Purchase This Item From Amazon.com.
A Toilet Plunger And A Sink Plunger Are Not The Same.
A Toilet plunger is designed to fit down into the area just below the bowl. This maximizes its effectiveness.
A sink plunger has a flat rubber. It’s designed to stay in contact with the sink to maximize its effectiveness.
SHOWN Just Above: Sink Plunger.
Click On The Photo To View, See Details, Or Purchase This Item From Amazon.com.
Drain Snake
SHOWN: A Drain-Snake Moves Into The Pipes To Clear Clogs.
Use This Next If A Plunger Does Not Work.
Click On The Photo To View, See Details, Or Purchase This Item From Amazon.com.
SUMMARY: This article describes what & where a drain line is for homes in the Dallas, Texas area. This information does not apply to homes with basements or slab homes in other locations within the U.S. . Also discussed is sewer lines maintenance which notably reduces the chances of a clog in the future. We suggested how to easily provide drain maintenance with enzymatic drain cleaners. Monthly maintenance (bi-monthly for households of 1-2) will introduce organic-waste eating bacteria & enzymes into your drain lines. These bacteria will eat away at the build-up in the sewer lines until it’s gone. Once there is nothing to left eat, the bacteria will move on (into the city’s sewer main).
This Article Discusses The Savings A Water Heater Timer Presents For An Electric Water Heater In DFW. Additionally, we provide less expensive and more effective ways to lower water heating costs.
HomeProPlumber provides full service plumbing maintenance, repairs and replacements for every plumbing component in your home. We sell & install Rheem Professional Series gas & electric water heaters, and tankless water heaters. We are near your home in Plano, Allen, Frisco, and McKinney Texas. Homes in southern Collin and Denton Counties incur no additional travel-charges. HomeProPlumber in Plano, Texas also provides maintenance & repairs for all brands of Central A/C, Gas & Electric Furnace, and Heat Pumps. Additionally we sell and install new HVAC Systems from American Standard (same company as Trane), Ameristar (same company as American Standard) and Coleman HVAC (same company as York HVAC).
Call us today to discuss any concerns or problems you have with your HVAC System or Plumbing. We will arrange an appointment at your convenience and offer 24/7 Emergency Service
Electric Water Heater Timer — How Much Money Will It Save?
A Water Heater Timer on an Electric Water Heater likely won’t save much money. Water heaters built after 1997 only run about 3 hours per day and High-E water heaters run only 1.3 hours. The only way a water heater timer will save money is if it prevents the water heater from reheating water during standby periods (when no hot water being used).
Cost To Run An Electric Water Heater:
Per Day: 5500 Watts x 3 hours = 16,500 watts or 16.5 KwH per day. At 10 cents per KwH * = $1.65 per Day.
Per Month: $1.65 / day x 31 days = $51 per Month.
Standby Heat Loss
If A Timer Shuts The Water Heater Off, The Only Savings That Would Occur Is IF
The Water Heater Would Have Cycled (heated) During The Standby Period.
Standby Heat Loss (heat lost while water heat is idle) is low for electric water heaters built since 1997. If your electric water heater is in the garage or attic, standby losses are minimal during summer months, and a little higher during winter.
A Water Heater Jacket Minimizes Standby Heat Loss 24 / 7
R-10 Water Heater Jacket With Foil Exterior
Click On Image To: View Product, See Details, or Purchase This From Amazon.com
Water Heater Jackets Have Different Insulating Values
Water Heater Jackets provide different amounts of insulating ability. Opt for the one with the highest R-Value if your water heater is in the garage or attic. If the water heater is inside the living space, a water heater jacket provides little benefit.
The Foil-Face Water Heater Blanket provides a Radiant-Heat Barrier. A Radiant-Heat Barrier reduces heat radiating outward from the water heater. The foil is worth the money if your water heater is in the garage or attic. The Water Heater Blanket shown above had the highest R-Value (R-10) Plus It Has The Foil Wrap, of all water heater blankets offered on Amazon at the time this article was written.
To Lower Water Heating Costs, Lower The Thermostat To 120 Degrees
Most water heaters are preset at 140 degrees when new. For every 10 degrees lower, you can save 3-5% on your bill.
In DFW Daily Cost (electric) = $1.65. A 10% daily savings = 16.5 cents per day, or $60 per year.
The U.S. DOE (Department of Energy) recommends most households lower their water heater to 120 degrees. If you have a large family which all bathe at the same time of day, a higher setting my be required.
Click On The White Arrow In The Center Of Image Below For A Video Showing How To Adjust The Thermostats (there are 2) On An Electric Water Heater.
SUMMARY: This article advises that a Water Heater Timer for an electric water heater has little capacity to save money on an Electric Water Heater built since 1997. Today’s electric water heaters run only 3 hours each day, and Hi-Efficiency water heaters run about 1.5 hours per day. The article gives two suggestions which can save on water heating costs for electric or gas water heaters.
Add a Water Heater Blanket
Lower Thermostat To 120 Degrees
Both of these task require little time and minimal cost for a water heater blanket. These two recommendations are also endorsed by the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE).
HomeProPlumber
This article discusses Water Heater Timer effects on water heating costs. We also provide less expensive and more effective ways to lower water heating costs.
HomeProPlumber provides full service plumbing maintenance, repairs and replacements for every plumbing component in your home. We sell & install Rheem Professional Series gas & electric water heaters, and tankless water heaters. We are near your home in Murphy, Wylie, and Rowlette, Texas. Homes in southern Collin and Denton Counties incur no additional travel-charges. HomeProPlumber in Plano, Texas also provides maintenance & repairs for all brands of Central A/C, Gas & Electric Furnace, and Heat Pumps. Additionally we sell and install new HVAC Systems from American Standard (same company as Trane), Ameristar (same company as American Standard) and Coleman HVAC (same company as York HVAC).
Call us today to discuss any concerns or problems you have with your HVAC System or Plumbing. We will arrange an appointment at your convenience and offer 24/7 Emergency Service
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Image Source: Dreamstime ID 113255050
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Photo Source: CanStockPhoto
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SHOWN ABOVE: Toilet Plunger. 
